How To Repair A Leaking Toilet Tank

Your toilet usually flushes, but periodically the water flows out of the tank by itself? Sometimes it stops flowing, but then it continues again and constantly flows into the toilet? In any case, a large amount of water is consumed, and the noise does not allow you to sleep at night.

Fortunately, if you have an idea about the device of the toilet and tank, then usually, the repair of a leaking tank does not pose significant problems and does not require high financial costs. Approach the definition of the problem systematically. In the flurry tank, there are a lot of devices that can begin to work incorrectly.

Step 1: Deal with the device of the tank.

The mechanisms may differ in detail, but they all work on the same principle. Remove the tank's lid, press the drain button a couple of times and follow the process inside.

- When the button is pressed, the chain raises the flap and releases all the water available in the tank's toilet through the bottom hole. When the water level drops, the flap drops and closes the gap.
- The plastic float descends as the water drains. The float is connected to the valve: it lets water into the tank when the float goes down and stops the supply (at least should stop) when the float is at the top.
- In the middle is also an overflow tube that provides a drain into the water into the toilet if the level in the tank rises too high.

Step 2: Analyse what's going on.

If after washing you have waited long enough, and the water does not stop flowing out, lift the tank's lid and look inside.

Step 3: Close the flap.

If the tank is not complete and is not filled, most likely, the flap is stuck in the open position.

Reach and close it manually. If the flap is constantly jammed, try to find the cause of the malfunction. Make the necessary adjustments.
- - Is the chain constantly clinging to some element, or is the flap clinging to the chain? Try to thread the flap chain into a plastic cocktail straw so that it does not cling to other elements and does not interfere with the proper closure of the flap. You can also completely replace the chain with loops of a dental flake of similar length.
  - Perhaps the loop of the flap mount is jammed?
  - Check if the flap matches the hole?
- Check if you have a ball flap and the wire lifting the ball is not bent and can move unhindered?

Step 4: Check that the amount of water in the tank corresponds to the required level.

Insufficient water can also be the cause of leakage of the tank.

- If the amount of water is BELOW the level, check the water valve. It should be fully open. If it is NOT open, open it manually, and the tank will begin to fill with water to the required level (except in cases of incorrect adjustment of the filling valve or float). Perform this step BEFORE replacing the flap or other parts.

Step 5: Try adjusting the valve or float.

Manually pull the float up. If the water stops flowing, you need to adjust the float level so that the tank stops filling when the water level is 2.5 cm below the top of the overflow tube. If the water level in the tank is too high, excess pressure can cause water to flow through the flap (even if a new flap is installed).
If the float is near the valve riser, squeeze the metal bracket and slide the float lower along the wire.

If the float is a ball structure on the arrow, then try to tighten the small cogs at the top of the valve. Sometimes you can also bend the arrow a little lower.

Check that the float ball does not touch other parts. Adjust it so that it does not cling to the tank's sidewall, overflow tube, or other elements.
Depending on the design of the float mechanism and its location relative to the filling tube, this tube can accidentally pass over the float mechanism and press it. Do not move the filling tube at the time of filling the tank. Otherwise, you risk arranging an unexpected shower.
A flooded float can cause an overflow (even with a properly functioning valve), making sure that the float ball does not leak and is not filled with water. If water has accumulated in the float, then it must be replaced.
If the ball valve and the device are covered with limescale, you can clean them (after taking them out of the tank). It does not take much time, and the result will justify the effort. If you manage to remove the ball valve, but can not disassemble it to get to the gaskets, often the reason for this is lime plaque.
If careful lifting of the float to the upper position does not stop the flow, and you have already tried all the above actions, it may be necessary to replace the entire filling valve assembly. Replacing valve as the whole is a topic for a separate article, so first, carefully check other possible causes and ways to eliminate them. If you believe that it is necessary to replace the valve, you can do it yourself and without high costs. Ask for advice from the hardware store and carefully read all the instructions on the packaging of the spare valve.

Step 6: Clean or replace the flap and/or flurry valve.

If the tank stops filling, and then the water again begins to flow intermittently, or the water constantly flows into the toilet, you deal with a weak leak from the tank into the toilet. Add a coloring tablet or a few drops of food coloring to the tank. Perhaps your hardware store has free coloring pills for this case. If after a couple of hours without flushing you find traces of paint in the toilet, this will indicate a weak leak – a small amount of water flows out of the tank into the toilet.

The most common cause of this problem is a leaky damper. Over time, this inexpensive rubber part is prone to destruction. It can become inelastic and require replacement. It is also possible to deposit minerals on the flap itself and/or on the rim of the flue valve.
If the flap is in good condition, then for proper operation, it is necessary to clean the flap itself and/or the rim on which it is lowered from deposits.
- Gently wipe the lower surface of the flap and the rim of the valve with your finger. Remove uneven mineral deposits that may be causing leakage. Use a sponge with bleach, a metal washcloth, or water-resistant sanding paper.
Cleaning helps remove deposits, but it's usually best to replace the whole part. There are several standard types of flaps, so going to the store makes it better to take an old part for comparison (to choose the correct replacement). How to replace the flap:
- - Turn off the water tap and rinse the water out of the tank. If the faucet is shut off properly, the tank will not fill up. You also won't hear the sound of water when the tank is empty.
  - Remove the old flap from the hinges, disconnect the chain from it and install a new flap.
  - When you're done, don't forget to open the valve again.
  - Perform a few flues to determine the correct chain length for the new flap. It should open when you press the fluke button and then close entirely when the tank becomes empty. Trial and error can determine the required chain length and adjust it appropriately. Also, make sure that the flap matches the hole.

Step 7: Solving other possible problems.

Sometimes there are other reasons for the slow flow of water from the tank.

- A small rubber filling tube running from the valve to the overflow tube and the valve itself can sometimes act as a siphon. In this case, it is necessary to raise the height of the valve or tube or reduce the water level.
- By itself, the valve is not able to completely stop the water. In collapsible valves, rubber gaskets can be changed. If the valve is non-flappable, a complete replacement may be required.
- There may be damage to one or more non-rubber components of the water valve mechanism, such as a lever connected to a plastic ball that blocks water by pressing to the bottom when the water level rises. If such damage occurs, it is best to buy a spare part. To work out the problem, you can use superglue.
- The case may be too high water pressure at the inlet of a small rubber filling tube going to the overflow tube, which is why the flap can not fall into place. In this case, partially close the shut-off valve on the wall.

Additional Tips

If you find a leak at night or other times when you can't start solving the problem, turn off the wall faucet to save water. To not scare guests, attach a note next to it that the water is temporarily blocked, and to fill the tank, you will need to open the tap on the wall.
If it is necessary to replace the filling or flurry valve, then first close the primary intake valve, then rinse, after which there will be no water left in the system *almost*. Use an old towel and a utility bucket to collect any water residue from the tank when you unscrew the drain pipe from the hole at the bottom of the tank. If you do not follow these precautions, then you risk greatly soiling the floor in the toilet.
Every few weeks or months, add 1/2-3/4 caps of regular bleach to the tank as follows. Take bleach. Remove the tank's lid, get ready to pour out the bleach, and press the drain button. When the flap drops and closes the hole with the familiar slap, pour the bleach into the tank. When filling the tank, the vortex movement of the water will carefully mix the bleach with the incoming water. This will clean the sediment and other fungal deposits in the tank and on the flap.

Warning

The narrow and high toilet tank is secured in the same way as the usual one.
If you live in an apartment or rent a house, then before performing significant repairs, you must obtain permission from the manager or owner. Replacing the flap or untangle the chain does not apply to major repairs, but replacing the valve or crane may well be considered as such.
Do not use toilet cleaning tablets that lower or attach to the tank wall and paint the water blue. All these chemicals lead to accelerated wear of the mechanism. If a toilet brush isn't right for you, try using other tank cleaners fed directly into the filling tube.
The lid of the tank is a heavy ceramic object. Be careful not to drop it.
These tips are suitable for most regular home toilets. There are also toilets with pressure tanks and other designs, although they are much less common. Do not try to repair such a tank yourself.
The water in the tank is usually clean enough. It has not yet flowed through the toilet, but do not forget to wash your hands after work, just in case.